Steering Stabilizer

Relay rod and steering cylinder

This centerlink / relay rod and steering stabilizer cylinder is off of a first generation S-series Blazer

It is a direct replacement for the stock crew cab relay rod, and since we already have the lower mounting bracket on the frame, it was an easy bolt on addition.

Here are some part numbers:
Steering damper, GM part # 22064628
Relay rod (center link), GM part # 26055302
NAPA replacement Steering Cylinder part # SC-2937
LMCtruck.com center link part # 29-5512
LMCtruck.com steering stabilizer part # 29-5445

Installation instructions-

GM recommended tools:
* J 6627-A Tie Rod Puller
* J 24319-B Steering Linkage Puller

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle with safety stands.
2. Remove the steering linkage shield.
3. Remove the differential carrier shield.

Important
Use the proper tool in order to separate all ball joints.

4. Remove inner tie rods ball stud nuts.
5. Remove the inner tie rods ball studs from the relay rod using J 6627-A .
6. Remove the steering shock absorber ball stud nut at the relay rod.
7. Disconnect the steering shock absorber from the relay rod using J 24319-B .
8. Remove the pitman arm ball stud nut at the relay rod.
9. Disconnect the pitman arm ball stud from the relay rod using J 24319-B .
10. Remove the idler arm ball stud nut at the relay rod.
11. Disconnect the idler arm ball stud from the relay rod using J 24319-B .
12. Remove the relay rod.
13. Inspect the following components:
* The threads on the tie rod for damage
* The threads on the tie rod end for damage
* The ball stud threads for damage
* The ball stud seals for excessive wear
14. Clean the threads on the ball stud.
15. Clean the threads on the ball stud nut.

Installation Procedure

* Tools Required J 29193 Steering Linkage Installer (12 mm)
* J 29194 Steering Linkage Installer (14 mm)

1. Install the idler arm ball stud to the relay rod. Ensure that the seal is on the stud.

Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

2. Seat the taper using J 29193 or J 29194 . Tighten J 29193 or J 29194 to 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
3. Remove J 29193 or J 29194 from the idler arm ball stud.
4. Install the new nut to the idler arm ball stud at the relay rod. Tighten the idler arm ball stud nut to 82 N·m (60 lb ft).
5. Install the relay rod ball stud to the pitman arm.
6. Ensure that the seal is on the stud. Seat the taper using J 29193 or J 29194. Tighten J 29193 or J 29194 to 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
7. Remove J 29193 or J 29194 from the pitman arm ball stud.
8. Install the new nut to the pitman arm ball stud at the relay rod. Tighten the pitman arm ball stud nut to 82 N·m (60 lb ft).
9. Connect the steering shock absorber to the relay rod.
10. Install the steering shock absorber ball stud nut at the relay rod. Tighten the steering shock absorber ball stud nut to 63 N·m (47 lb ft).
11. Install the inner tie rod ball studs to the relay rod. Ensure the seal is on the stud.
12. Seat the tapers using J 29193 or J 29194 . Tighten J 29193 or J 29194 to 54 N·m (40 lb ft).
13. Remove J 29193 or J 29194 from inner tie rod ball stud.
14. Repeat steps 12 and 13 for the opposite side.
15. Install the new nuts to the inner tie rod ball studs at the relay rod. Tighten the inner tie rod ball stud nuts to 82 N·m (60 lb ft).
16. Install the differential carrier shield.
17. Install the differential carrier shield mounting bolts. Tighten the differential carrier shield mounting bolts to 25 N·m (19 lb ft).
18. Install the steering linkage shield. Refer to Steering Linkage Shield Replacement .
19. Lower the vehicle.
20. Adjust the front toe as needed.

Not everyone is going to have the correct tools to do this swap, but with a little care it can be done.
Do not beat on the threads of the ball joints. A nut will not protect them properly either. There are other ways. A swat with a BFH to the end if the rod where the balljoint enters the relay rod will pop the two outer ball joints loose. This can also be done for the pitman and idler arms at the salvage yard while working on a vehicle without an engine. Hitting the relay rod on the side where the ball joint enters will pop them loose too.
On the crew cab , I used a ball joint fork to remove the pitman and idler arm ball joints from the relay rod. I did damage the pitman arms seal though and had to replace it. Using GM's recommended tools would have prevented this I'm sure. Using a pry bar to hold pressure on the ball joint while tightening the nuts usually will keep the tapered studs from turning during installation.