A combination of metal and bi-metal lined.s10 again wrote:... Are the clutches in the g80 metal?
Recommended fluid is still listed as 1052271 through 2004 for the G80 equipped rear axle s-series. It is possible the later model full size use a G80 with different clutch material. I have heard both rumors too, but no conformation or specifics. I guess if it meets the GL5 specifications it could be ok. I have not found one suitable yet though, JMO. More than likely the smell is friction modifier. That stuff really stinks.The gear oil smells a bit different synthetic? I read on another site that GM started using Synthetic without lsd additive as early as 98 on F/S trucks to help with problems they were having with the g80. Any idea if the General might have started using synthetic on all 8.5 applications with the g80?
My guess is they are listing the G80 as a LSD (limited Slip Differential). That would be my choice. You have a 50/50 shot at getting it right.Autozone has 2 different axle seals listed for the 8.6. One with lsd one without. Which one for the g80?
Go for it. I even thought about a custom bracket so I could ditch the u-bolts that hold it on.I might cut that bracket down keeping just what is needed to hold that brake line what you think?
No, that is a positive attitude!s10 again wrote:...maybe I'm being...
HenryJ wrote:No, that is a positive attitude!s10 again wrote:...maybe I'm being...
Yes. It is too long and will not fit the bracket.s10 again wrote:The stock one on mine is a tad longer than the zr2 hose is that a problem.
Stuff a rag in there to catch the piecess10 again wrote:I want to try to avoid getting metal shavings in the housing if I can.
It needs to be out of the oil dispersion so that it does not bleed oil. Axle tubes are a better place. There is an axle tube bolt for the brake line that incorporates a breather tube. That might be an option.Any problem with moving the fitting to the cover?
roadrunner wrote:You might want to count your blessings that fitting broke off now and not later unnoticed allowing water etc to get into your new rear end ruining all your hard work or at best making more work and expense.
rlrnr53 wrote:Sounds like Mr. Murphy decided to move into your garage.A little patience and elbow grease will move him out.
HenryJ wrote::rock: Nice job! I spy a BSW rear spring kit on there, right?
northsnoma wrote:About how much does the BSW kit cost? Sorry to throw the thread off-track..
northsnoma wrote:I am in the Flint area so their are many machine shops and specialty craftsman around that I would hope would be able to put something together from the photos
Line can be purchased at the auto parts store. Cut the line back to where it is good and re-flare it add a union / coupler and a new piece of line.Horsehammerr wrote:... my main steel brake line that attaches to the feed line to the rear "T" rusted through at the flare nut right there by that breather box. What can be done besides replace the line ? If that is the only answer can a new one be purchased and where ?...
HenryJ wrote:I would go with a rear from ZR2. The 8.5" rear is wider to match the track of the front without spacers. Disc brakes and ABS sensor to match the braking system. Good availability of parts. Eaton G80 gov-loc and gears to match mine. Lots of aftermarket support. Requires less horsepower to operate than other options, other than stock.
You would lose some ground clearance due to the larger center section. That may be a good reason to stick with the stock 7.625" diff. I have invested in a good cover, rotors and pads for that rear end, so I am in no hurry to switch.
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