Door hinge pin & bushings repair:


Tools needed:

BF Hammer
Punch (improvise)
Masking tape
Lithium grease
Door Spring tool
Another set of hands (invite friend)
Bucket , floor jack or jack stand to support the door
Large flat head screwdriver , punch or a cold-chisel
Hinge pins and bushings (Make sure you get the right ones! 1st gen and second gen pins and bushings are quite different!) Each door takes 2 pins/4 bushings/2 locking clips
NAPA has them on their web site with the clips. Most auto parts store sell them in the help section.
Soft bristle brush

So we start by tapping up the inside and outside of the door to prevent damage to the paint, or a towel in the cowl and down between the door and fender.

Next we remove the door spring with our handy dandy doorspring tool...Tighten the 1/2 inch (13mm) nut till the spring easily pops off it's to securing points. I reccommend throwing a heavy towel over it as you remove it from the door just as another safery precaution. I left the tool on the spring with it compressed, and the towel over it to make the reinstallation quicker.

Spring tool. NAPA P/N - 770-3818

Now the door needs to be supported. Here's where the bucket came in handy as well as the extra set of hands. Make sure you have another person to assist. You'll kill yourself trying to rely on the support alone. It's impossible to hold the door and remove pins, connectors, etc. Trust me, the door is HEAVY. Cover the support with towels to protect your door paint.



Now for the fun part...Most people think it's simple to knock pins out. It's not. First you need to make sure you don't whack the windshield, secondly, they can be in there pretty tight. Here you can see me with a 2 long 1/4" ratchet extentions. I find this better than a punch because the hole in the base gets a nice lock on the top of the pin. This will prevent it from shifting as your whacking it and you won't put any dents/dings into your body.. Also not you may have a little ring on top of the old pins. Don't worry about it, they can't be reused. As you punch the old pin out, it will fall off.

Next seperate the door from the body..Do this slowly to prevent paint/metal damage to your truck.

Now we take our punch, large flathead screwdriver ,or 3/8" drive extension and put it against the bottom of the old bushing and whack it with the hammer. Depending how tight your old bushings are, they can either immediately fall out, or you will have to chip away at them until they fall out. If they fall out without anyforce, take a good look at the bushing hole to check for egging. Once the bushings are knocked out, you will be left with this..(Now is a good time to take a brush and maybe soap and water and clean any debris in the holes and surrounding dirt off the door jam and hinges

Now for the installation of the new bushings. Here we see one of the old Pins and the new GM OEM bushings and pins that we are going to install. Note: These bushings are different sizes! The top bushing (or bottom depending which side you're working on) Is larger than the bottom. This is to accomodate the expanded top part of the pin. DO NOT MIX THESE UP!

Use a bolt and nut to press the new bushings in. They stick through a little so I stacked two 1/2 inch washers over the hole so I could press them home. The pin is 3/8 so you will need a 5/16 bolt. The other picture shows using a 2-1/2" bolt that would fit through both bushings, a washer, a socket, and nut. Use what you have available.

Here you see it seated ready to crank down. This made life a lot easier and take about 10 seconds to do. Simply tighten it down until the top of the bushing meets the hinge.

Here is the completed hinges with new bushings, pins, and clip...Notice the new clip is down on top of the hinge and not on the tip. I used a 3/8 deep set socket to push it home.

Special thanks go to "rlith" and "BADs crew" for this write-up.